Begonias can be started in a number of methods. After the last frost, you can sow tubers, potted plants, or seeds in a starting tray. Begonias may be grown indoors from seeds or fibrous roots; however, you should determine when your location is likely to have their last frost so that you are ready to move them outside. Typically, you should start the seeds three months in advance.

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Plant seeds in a shallow container using a seed starting tray and soil mix. To aid with germination, place the tray in indirect sunlight.

Warm temperature, usually between 70°F and 75°F, is necessary for begonias to have healthy, wet soil.

It should take three weeks for the seedlings to appear.

You may either grow seedlings under fluorescent plant lights or continue to provide them natural light. To provide seedlings with a break from the heat, turn off the lights at night.

Plant seedlings with two leaves on each, and give the new growth space to expand out.

Begonias should be transplanted to their ultimate position following the last frost, and fertilizer should be added after one month of growth.

Sending Begonias in Their New Homes

Begonias thrive in pots and provide container gardens a splash of color. They have a two- or three-year lifespan, but not much longer. Wait until there is no longer a chance of frost to pot. Pick a container with holes for drainage and add composted potting soil to it. Based on the demands of that particular variety, place the container in full sun or partial shade. Begonias want to be somewhat rootbound, so when they need to be repotted, start with tiny pots and work your way up to a larger size. In between waterings, let the top two inches of soil to dry out and apply fertilizer once a month. If the temperature drops below forty-five degrees Fahrenheit in the winter, bring potted begonias inside.

The Overwintering

Whether to provide begonias in winter depends on whether they are fibrous or tuberous. For continued development, tuberous begonias require little moisture. Watering the bulbs often will either rot them or promote new growth. If the growth persists, keep trimming the weaker shoots and stop watering until spring. Take out any rotting or moldy tubers. Begonias that are fibrous or rooted behave similarly to other houseplants in the winter, requiring minimal watering, good, wet soil, and indirect sunshine. Avoid overheating or direct lighting the plants. When bringing plants outside, wait until you are certain that the season’s last frost has passed. Begonias need time to acclimate to the springtime temps, so move them outside gradually.

Common Plant Diseases & Pests

Begonias grown in humid settings with inadequate air circulation or in oversaturated soil are prone to diseases such as stem rot, Botrytis blight, and powdery mildew.

Begonias are susceptible to pests, thus protection is key because these plants react negatively to insecticidal soaps. Begonias are frequently linked to thrips, mealybugs, spider mites, and scales. These pests can be treated using insecticidal soaps. When testing for leaf scorch, use it lightly at first.

Tips For Making Begonias Bloom

In optimal weather conditions and partial sun, begonias can bloom for as long as six months. Fertilizer should only be used to pots and containers every two weeks to encourage new growth; garden beds only require fertilizer every three to four weeks. Use a slow-release solution to avoid depleting the energy of the blooms by producing more foliage and roots. Fertilizer or soil rich in nutrients will assist boost begonias to bloom. Because begonia stems are flexible, you may deadhead or remove wasted blooms with your fingers to create space for a fresh display.

Regular Issues With Begonias

Begonias are vulnerable to pests and illnesses in the garden. Some are harder to cure than others, but you’ll know what to look for in your plants if you know what might go wrong.

Browning Tips

Excessive exposure to direct or strong sunlight causes leaves to become brown. Begonias like well-drained soil, but they can still be affected by underwatering, which can result in dry, brown leaves. Furthermore, whether cultivating begonias inside or in unsuitable weather, make sure the area around the plants has adequate humidity. Begonia plants should not be kept close to air vents indoors.

Leaves Turning Yellow

Yellow leaves are a typical indicator of overwatering; use your fingertips to feel the soil to determine whether begonias want more water. Make use of a container that drains effectively and add peat to the potting soil. If the yellowing doesn’t go away, white patches may show up, which is an indication of powdery mildew. Apply a fungicide to the damaged foliage, being careful not to burn the leaves—begonias are vulnerable to leaf scorch.

Leaves With Pierces

Begonias are a favorite plant of many pests, such as snails and slugs. If the foliage looks to be covered with holes or has a slimy residue, it may have been infested by one of these pests. Slugs and snails are easily removed by hand. Diatomaceous earth, a powder that is available at garden centers and is created from the detritus of fossilized algae, may also be used to slow down pests. After a lot of rain, reapply the solution.

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